We look upon any opportunity to return to Monte-Carlo with delight; the phenomenal food, wine and service, and just the right amount of glamour and flash make it a great getaway, even if one is there for work. Work and leisure make an ideal combination at Monaco’s annual Yacht Show. And so we found ourselves here again this September with ÔMER, Alain Ducasse’s second Monegasque restaurant that opened back in January this year, a “must do” on our list as well as the venue for our annual dinner with industry leaders at the Show.
Conceived and christened with a wry nod to its surroundings ‘at the sea’ (au mer) and the origin of some of the core components of its menu, to our minds, ÔMER was also a bow to Homer and his classic epic, The Odyssey. Its menu is epically adventurous in its quest to be all things Mediterranean, per its tagline: toute la Méditerranée. This innovative restaurant had been generating quite positive buzz, and it definitely warranted all the interest. NAVIS has always enjoyed a superb relationship with the Hôtel de Paris and, indeed, all the properties of Societé des Bains de Mer (SBM). Although we felt the pressure to compete with last year’s exceptional venue, Le Grill, its remarkable service, exceptional cuisine and dramatic ocean views 8 floors above in the same hotel, we again returned to the extraordinary food and beverage outlets at SBM as is our habit – and why gamble with perfection? And ÔMER became a most worthy contender.
ÔMER’s sleek interior is as far removed from the belle epoque opulence of the Hôtel de Paris as possible. Located in the newer Rotonde extension to the hotel, it has a welcoming and more zen-like ambience to its interior than any of the other venues at Hotel de Paris. Intimate and serene, ÔMER is surrounded by the hotel’s lush, tree-filled garden, and accented by the ever-present salty reminder of the sea just beyond the landscaped view. Its sleek yet plush furniture and decor, awash in highly polished wood moldings, allude to the superyachts that famously moor here and in other marinas along the coast of the Mediterranean. From the bowed walls and alcoves, wooden floors, and jaw-dropping Wine Circle, expertly executed from the design of Pierre-Yves Rochon, it was clear as we entered the venue, that its ambience would add inspiration to the evening.
An innovative culinary take on the Mediterranean
Once sous chef under Ducasse at the triple Michelin-starred Le Louis XV, Chef Patrick Laine (previously at the afore-mentioned Le Grill) was tapped to take the helm of ÔMER and navigate the challenges of a seasonally changing menu. Selections for both dinners and luncheons reflect the variety of both land and sea produce across the Mediterranean region, with a particular focus on the North African region, alongside touches of southern Europe: essentially, tapas or mezze, with hints of Morocco (mint, lemon and figs), Lebanon (pine nuts, vermicelli) and Turkey (lamb, aubergines).
The starter menu offered our small group just the appropriate amount of variety to encourage convivial sharing without being overwhelmed with too many choices. The entrees which followed are anything but traditional classics. Dina Nikolau, the ebullient Greek chef that Ducasse had mentored, contributed some of the Greek references throughout the menu, including a moussaka redolent in mint and feta cream and a baklava which made a most welcome appearance at dessert. Ducasse has long been celebrated for his love of -- and inspirational takes on -- the humbler varieties of produce from the land and sea, across the many cultures and ethnicities of the Mediterranean’s vast region: and ÔMER deftly weaves this thread throughout the menu. For a few of the group, it was a delight to simply opt for several of the mezze, avoiding the usual over-abundance of entrée portions. The menu continued to build its story like an old-fashioned adventure novel, and although most of the options were surprisingly healthy, there were also subtle clues that over-indulgent dishes might be lurking close-by. No matter the menu selections, the nuanced flavors gracefully overrode anything one would consider too decadent. Friends who had dined at ÔMER since its opening had encouraged us to try the octopus, aubergines, and the lemon dessert. It turns out these educated recommendations were spot-on but, alas, there is a limit to how much one can sample. There is a bit of liberation in not being bound by the rigidity of set courses in a meal, and that is part of ÔMER’s charm. Each of our group happily remarked on the myriad surprises of the menu before us, and as we looked over the wine selections, and afterward, when we were served. No pauses, no lulls in the conversation. Provocative and inspiring, collaborative, you might even say.
I would be remiss not to remark on the incredible service. In all its glamour and style, Monte-Carlo has been known for its remarkable service levels and here, too, ÔMER certainly does not disappoint. The Ducasse brand, with the consulting, education, hospitality divisions surrounding its culinary base, continues to raise the bar yet another level. The serving staff were all friendly, thoughtful, and knowledgeable, without being either automatic or too familiar. They succeeded at being attentive without impositioning and unobtrusive without verging on scarcity. Our particular praise goes to the sommelier that evening who effortlessly aided in pairing wines for the admittedly very diverse selection of plates.
Cuisine and venue both ideal for sharing
As our small group of esteemed guests wrapped up for the evening, it was reassuring that the slightly more relaxed, but no less formal feeling to this Ducasse venue, had inspired dynamic interaction among the influential yacht owners at our table. The discussions that touched on so many relevant topics for this industry evolved naturally, following the evolution of the dinner itself. This is just one of Ducasse’s many talents, and it is superbly evident at ÔMER, where the communal and welcoming ambience and the emergence of each new culinary delight kept the group energized. Amiable discussions naturally progressed from the industry’s dramatic growth to the impact of that growth on the environment. As the meal continued, the emergence of new international markets fueling the growth of luxury yachting were considered, along with strategies on the evolution of same and potential future scenarios.
With ÔMER’s innovative menu, overall ambience and committed, caring service, the restaurant makes an ideal venue for motivating business luncheons as well as provocative, animated dinners such as the one we enjoyed that night. As it is pitched, ÔMER’s offering is food that is “meant to be shared” and so, too, diners here share conviviality and passionate ideas, fueled by the originality of its inspired menu. As Ducasse himself has said, “a great idea is nothing if it is not perfectly executed,” and this is ÔMER: perfectly executed.
