Kenmare’s Beauty In A Perfect Day Wild At Heart

NAVIS had first explored the many charms of western Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way back in our August/September 2016 issue. We couldn’t fail to be charmed by the beauty and majesty of pristine coastline, lush green fields, remote moors, lakes, and soaring mountains beyond. Ireland itself is a romantic destination, but the beauty of its coastal areas, particularly the sheltered Kenmare coastline.

Kenmare, surrounded by mountains to one side and the picturesque Kenmare Bay on the other, utterly enchants. Renowned as one of a few Heritage Towns in Ireland, a much-coveted annual award by picturesque villages like Kenmare. With a population of just under 2,400 (in 2016), it retains the ‘village’ feel that it’s had since it was established as Ireland’s first ‘planned’ town back in 1670. It’s Ireland, so yes, it rains, but its protected position and proximity to the Gulf Stream mean that the climate here is mild.

Fáilte Ireland, the tourism board, crowned Kenmare the “Jewel in the Ring of Kerry,” the aforementioned a popular scenic route of 111 miles (179 km) renowned worldwide for its scenic wonder. Located at the head of beautiful Kenmare Bay, which stretches 31 miles (50 km) from town into the Atlantic. Perhaps the only better way than walking through Kenmare town is to sail along the bay, which offers great views of seals basking on the rocks. 

Sleep

Kenmare and its immediate surrounds abound with luxury hotels and estate rentals. Perhaps few are as well-known as those owned and managed by the hospitable Brennan Brothers – Francis and John -- the town’s unofficial spokesmen and ace hoteliers. These include the renowned Park Hotel Kenmare, a Victorian manor built in 1897. Today it is a long-time member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux and features 45 opulent rooms and suites, three dining venues, including a fine-dining restaurant with a tasting menu and Kenmare Bay views, the cossetting SÁMAS spa, lap pool, screening room, an adjacent 18-hole golf course, as well as an abundance of daily activities like meditation, guided power naps, sailing, or garden walks in the town’s historic center. 

Also tended by the Brennans is The Lansdowne, in the heart of the historic village center, originally built in 1790 as a residence for the 2nd Earl of Shelbourne. Outside of town, along the Ring of Kerry Road (N70), is Dromquinna Manor, which the Brothers Brennan also operate. It features posh wedding facilities, as well as unique luxury glamping for couples featuring private baths and terraces with water views (The Hideaway), the updated 1890’s Potting Sheds (some of which accommodate little guests), and Courtyard Mews (couples-only) set amidst lavish gardens. Then there is the 1,600 ft² Bolthole which accommodates six, and the 3500 ft² Blackberry Lodge which sleeps twelve, both on a self-catering basis. No matter a visitor’s lodging style, there’s a good chance you’ll find it within the Brennan’s portfolio.  

Eat

Curiously, Kenmare is the only town in Ireland with more restaurants than pubs. The oft-overused “farm to table” designation is well-awarded here, as some of the country’s finest dining establishments -- both casual and refined -- can be found here and source from the rich bounty of the local surrounds. Mike Casey’s The Lime Tree, housed in a charmingly romantic cottage, serves dinners in-season and features the freshest seafood and superb local lamb. No. 35 is also at the top of the list of Kenmare’s restaurant scene with its own breed of rare pedigree saddleback pigs on its twenty acres of farm nearby. Who knew that pigs have “terroir”? We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention Mulcahy’s, a gastro brew-pub mixing very fresh Mediterranean and Irish dishes.

Back at the Brennan’s, at The Lansdowne, Dining Bar Terrace, LK Café, and The Piano Lounge make ideal stop(s) for elevenses, a quick lunch, afternoon tea, or a pint or two as you walk through the colorful streets of tidy Kenmare. Dromquinna’s Boathouse Bistro appeared in Michelin’s 2023 Guide to Irish Republic’s Best Seafood Restaurants. Back at Park Hotel Kenmare is Park, at the top of any gourmand’s to-dine list, for traditional cuisine.