A Journey Through Norway’s Fjordland

Between Mountains and Mists

Scandinavia’s appeal is boundless: pristine natural beauty that nurtures a conservationist mindset and encourages an active lifestyle. Known for its iconic design, innovative cuisine, and transformative tech, components that contribute to high standards of living and the world’s happiest people. The unending stream of dramatic views encountered in Norway’s Fjordland boasts all these attributes all highly condensed, creating an irresistible allure for adventurers, artists, and lovers of nature. 

When our partners at Helly Hansen beckoned us to their homeland, it wasn’t just a business proposition, but an intimate invitation. Assisted by VisitNorway’s top recommendations, our journey, which segued into our annual attendance at the Monaco Yacht Show, began in earnest.

Our road trip started in Oslo, where we met our hosts at the new Sommerro Hotel, located just meters from the Royal Palace. With its ideal location on a tree-lined street dotted with museums, restaurants, galleries, and antique stores, Oslo’s hottest hotel encapsulates the very essence of the neighborhood’s cultural and gastronomic vibe, making it the perfect place to stay. In addition to the 231 luxurious rooms and suites, appointed with plush mattresses, Sommerro boasts multiple dining options (some with live entertainment), a wellness area with Olympic-sized pool, and adjacent private residence (Villa Inkognito) all rendered with impeccable interior design that welcomes guests in a refined ambience. 

We headed straight to the Helly Hansen flagship store where our friends were waiting to confer on our itinerary, advise us on all the variations of weather we’d likely encounter, and select the perfect gear for care-free enjoyment of Fjordland. Famous for blurring all boundaries between workwear, performance gear, and fashion, this brand captures the frequently quoted Norwegian adage of “no bad weather, only bad clothing.” The team coordinated a layered system that could quickly adapt to changing temperatures, with an outer waterproof shell to protect from any rain, wind, and snow we might encounter.

Expertly outfitted, we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Oslo on foot. Although the longest days of the Midnight Sun were essentially gone and Northern Lights season poised to begin, the pedestrian streets of the harbour-front beckoned. There was an endless line of marinas along the coast of the Oslofjord, making it clear that Oslo, populated over millennia by Vikings and immigrants, was a city of sea people. 

After a restful night, energized by delicious coffee and an unbelievably robust buffet at Sommerro, we headed from Oslo in the morning on the first leg of our journey.

The Road to Odda

A short detour took us to the marvel that is the Heddal Stave Church. This towering triple-nave wooden wonder comes straight from the Middle Ages. Stave churches are iconically Norwegian, and there were nearly two thousand of them at one time, while the rest of Europe was focused on constructing their houses of worship from stone. Today, there are fewer than 30 of these remaining, some quite plain and diminutive, and others with ornate carvings like Heddal’s, telling tales of old gods as well along with the newer Christian themes. Norway’s largest stave church, Heddal is still in use today.

Driving the Turistveg Den gamle Haukelivegen (old scenic route #134), the panoramic beauty of Norway unfurled. The surreal Lake Lottevatnet fed by glacial waters, and the awe-inspiring Låtefoss waterfall’s dual torrents heralded our entry into the Land of Waterfalls. 

We drove on until we reached beautiful Odda, perfectly positioned between Lake Sandvinvatnet and an arm of the huge Hardangerfjord. The team at the Trolltunga Hotel greeted us. With its incredible views, the hotel is the ideal starting point for adventurers seeking the iconic overhang that appears on every Instagrammer’s bucket list. 

But it was late, so we took advantage of the remaining daylight to hike the base of Buer Glacier nearby. The view here during sunset was exceptional. After walking the hiking trail a bit, we discovered Buer Restaurant, an exquisite property located in an equally exquisite place. We spent some time talking with expert sommelier and pommelier, Kasper Wrem Anderson, who gave us a quick master course on cider (sider), especially the ones produced in the Fjordlands. As we tasted the Blaane from Aakre Gård, a sparkling juice crafted from aromatic local apples, and the Alde Ice sider from Bleie Gård in Sørfjorden whose intensely sweet yet crisp refreshing taste was due to an uncommonly high concentration of summer red apples, we realized we were experiencing some of the world’s best ciders. This is an industry in which Norway excels and the amount of awards these siders continue to receive are the proof of this unexpected treasure. 

The gastronomy at Buer is equally impressive. The chef, Hans Almeland Seim, frequently revises the menus based on seasonality and works to create contemporary takes on traditional concepts. Winter is among the most challenging of seasons due to the limited fresh local products available but the region’s abundant game steps up to take its place. After a fantastic evening with our new friends at Buer Restaurant, we returned to Trolltunga Hotel to recover for the next day’s adventure.

Bergen’s Best

We awakened to rain and, well-outfitted by our friends at Helly Hansen, we felt authentically Norwegian. In the right gear, we were ready for anything as we made our way to Bergen. 

Norway’s historical heart, Bergen, combines old-world charm with modern allure. Houses still cling precariously to the surrounding hillside and the oldest neighborhoods still feature narrow cobblestone lanes. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Bryggen Wharf, the only remnant of the Hanseatic League still standing outside of Germany, houses a museum, shops, galleries, and restaurants and is a buzzing focal point for both locals and visitors.

Our hotel, the Opus XVI Hotel was ideally located, just 50 meters or less from everything a visitor seeks: the fjords, the wharf, fish market, and more. Built in 1876 for the city’s largest bank, the hotel is a veritable opus itself. The name references Piano Concerto in A Minor of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg. Grieg family descendants now run this property, carefully restoring and enhancing it with original pieces of art and objects from Grieg’s legacy on display. Each of the hotel’s 65 rooms and suites are individually decorated, each with their own personality, reflecting the building’s identity and the history within. Our rooms were splendidly decorated, with perfect beds that promised, and delivered, a restful sleep.

We woke up early in the morning to start the exploration of the city. The coffee appeared as we found our table, and the hotel’s owner, Alexander Grieg, also joined us for breakfast to share his insight. The true highlight of Bergen is a fjord cruise, where the sheer magnitude and grandeur of nature’s artistry takes one’s breath away. Whether it rained or the sun appeared, which alternated frequently, we were perfectly comfortable and elated by the appearance of rainbows.

We were a bit hungry and tired on our return. Instead of searching for a restaurant, we decided to dine in, a wise decision. We experienced some of the most exceptional cuisine on this trip right at Opus XVI’s restaurant. The menu, which focuses on the freshest ingredients from western Norway and changes frequently did not disappoint. In particular the tender cod in a savory artichoke sauce was outstanding, which we capped off with their exceptional cheese plate selection. 

Bountiful Balestrand

The next morning, after toasting the friends we made in Bergen, we embarked on our next adventure, setting our sights on Balestrand. Eschewing the direct route, we instead chose the scenic drive, a decision we’d never regret.

Our journey traced a captivating path through Knarvik, Lindas, and Mogstad, leading us past the haunting beauty of Sognefjord Kystfort. We continued through Lavik, Vadheim, and Sande, with the Utsikten pass standing as a grand sentinel along our way, before winding our path down to Balestrand. It’s hard to encapsulate this route’s essence briefly, but it possessed all the makings of an epic road trip: sinuous roads, daunting ascents, lofty mountain passes, interspersed with car ferries, atmospheric tunnels, and the ever-shifting Norwegian weather. For anyone yearning for a truly scenic drive, this is the very definition of it.

The grand Kviknes Hotel on the shores of the Sognefjord boasts an impressive history of hospitality dating to the 1750’s and is the ultimate place to rest one’s head in Balestrand. Royalty, presidents, and movie stars have done so for centuries. Sognefjord’s real jewel besides Kviknes’ location and views, is the gastronomy. Marrying local ingredients with global techniques, accompanied by the expertise of its sommelier overseeing the Sognefjord’s largest wine cellar ensures that each meal at Kviknes adds a delicious note to the memorable experience.

Sometimes the best planned trips have a wrinkle, or two. These unexpected adventures often become the most treasured. The next day, we headed to Geiranger, but a wrong turn found us without the possibility of reaching our destination on time. In search for a place to rest our heads, we serendipitously discovered Overvoll Farm, a 1900’s farmhouse and adjacent barn renovated to a warm, cozy delight. Owner (and talented chef), Kristin Hansen, welcomed us into a beautiful room of plush comforts. Her offer of dinner was welcomed and we experienced some of her specialties featuring authentic local flavor, like rich, hearty venison, an array of salads straight from her farm, couscous, curried bananas, and more. We slept soundly after dinner. 

High Lights

With our days in majestic Norway dwindling, we ventured to the westernmost edge of the fjords, where they meet the vast North Atlantic. The views were as spectacular as ever, but we would soon encounter a new level of majestic awe. Runde Island was our destination, a bird paradise which welcomes thousands of migrating and nesting birds seasonally. We were more enchanted by a mystic spectacle of rainbows on this remote and windy island, but as we headed to board the Ålesund ferry, the aurora app we had downloaded indicated – serendipitously –a 100% possibility of seeing the Northern Lights. With bated breath, we chose to stay the night, hopeful for the spectacle ahead. As the clock struck 11 PM on this clear, moonless night, ethereal green rays commenced their mesmerizing display. Crimson flares, reminiscent of untamed hair, intertwined with the swirling shimmers of their verdant gowns. The Northern Lights danced gracefully, holding us captive for nearly two hours, making it feel as if time itself had paused to watch.

Elated yet exhausted, we drove to Ålesund in the morning. One of the region’s most beautiful towns, it is known for its curvy art nouveau architecture, all those swirls and arches no doubt inspired by the churning waters of both the sea and the fjords. We would have longed to stay, or return, but another kind of spectacle awaited us in just a few days in Monaco. We headed back to Oslo and our flight to Nice, vowing that we’d return again, perhaps in winter. Until then, the dream of Norway’ snow-covered fjords and more northern lights beckon, promising another unforgettable chapter in our Norwegian saga.

Acknowledgments

This unforgettable journey through the heart of Norway would not have been possible without the invaluable collaboration and support of several esteemed organizations and establishments. We wish to express our deepest gratitude to:

• Helly Hansen - Their impeccable gear ensured our adventures were comfortable and authentic. https://www.hellyhansen.com
• Sommerro Hotel - Their hospitality provided us with moments of relaxation and tranquility. https://www.sommerrohouse.com,
• OPUS XVI Hotel - Nestled in the heart of Bergen, their historic charm and modern comforts elevated our stay. https://opus16.no
• Kviknes Hotel - Their unmatched service and picturesque locatio.. https://www.kviknes.com
• Trolltunga Hotel - Located in the picturesque Odda, their warm hospitality was the perfect complement to our exploration of the region. https://www.trolltungahotel.no
• FJORD NORGE AS - Guiding us through the best of what the fjords have to offer.
• Visit Norway - Their expert recommendations and insights helped craft an itinerary that truly captured the essence of Norway.
• We are immensely thankful for their partnership and contributions, which were instrumental in bringing this story to life.