Nestled at the edge of Europe and Asia, and often referred to as “the grande dame of the Bophorus,” the celebrated Çirağan Palace Kempinski enjoys an enviable location at the water’s edge in Istanbul’s upscale Beşiktaş neighborhood. This is a site where East meets West, where cultures, lifestyles, even eras seamlessly converge and where Ottoman royalty have been dwelling and celebrating, even before the last historic portions were built. The Çirağan Palace is the only 5-star hotel that actually functioned as an Ottoman Imperial palace, occupied by Sultan Abdülaziz as well as his successors, the last remaining viziers and pashas of the once mighty Empire. The Palace’s name derives from the Persian “cerag,” meaning “torch,” and harkens back to festivals held in the vast gardens during the historic Tulip Era of the 1700’s. The revitalized Çirağan Palace still holds sway in today’s Istanbul, reigning now as an ultimate urban retreat attracting both locals and visitors for dining, celebrating, and relaxing, a true oasis in the heart of this bustling metropolis, it is deal for those seeking exquisite surroundings, exceptional service, and a wealth of opportunities for true relaxation and pleasure in this city brimming with rich history and culture.
Although this wasn’t our first visit here (see Bosphorus Bliss in NAVIS issue #66); returning to Istanbul is always a delight and this time was no exception and was likely made even more breathtaking by the many refinements that had been merely hinted to us on our last visit. We were certainly not disappointed on our arrival.
Contemporary Classic
Upon entering the lobby area of the hotel, the expected grandeur of the historic icon is certainly as impressive as ever, but the aesthetic concept as imagined by Ottoman art expert, Serdar Gülgün in collaboration with Toner Architects, elevates the refinement to another strata entirely. Luxurious and polished, the hotel retains its heritage and sense of place in a more contemporary manner with modernized details that still evoke the property’s imperial heritage: luxurious textiles in gorgeous deep jewel tones like rich ruby and serene sapphire along with a profusion of patterns common in Ottoman art. Beneath the massive and magnificent Murano-style chandelier, one cannot miss the plush octagonal seating topped by a sculpture depicting three regal tortoises holding aloft a covered urn, recalling the Sultan’s parties long ago when turtles would illuminate the gardens with lanterns placed atop their shells, their movements adding an ever-changing glow to the festivities. Making one’s way across to the Bosphorus-side of the hotel, a beautifully decorated corridor also dazzles, with walls on either side adorned with large oval mirrors in an arrangement that creates an utterly enchanting effect of infinite reflections extending into eternity. This mesmerizing feature at once catches the eye, adding dynamic elegance to the hotel’s inherently regal ambiance.
The newly renovated areas of the hotel are truly exceptional, especially since they weave the majestic palace with the 1990’s hotel addition seamlessly. New or old, there is likely not a hotel property of this kind of quality and its ambience leaves visitors in awe, as evidenced by random comments overheard in the elevators.
Our first-floor accommodations featured a stunning view of the Bosphorus. In fact, the majority of accommodations here boast Bosphorus views and large balconies, and those with direct Bosphorus views are “must-stays.” Here again, the construction quality and the craftsmanship of each piece of furniture and every textile was exceptional. The re-designed rooms were highlighted by Ottoman-inspired décor reimagined through a lens of contemporary elegance. The recurrence of Turkish motifs adorned a variety of elements from floors to ceilings, stone walls, and columns, and added cohesive and elegant touches. The regal bathrooms were clad in gray marble and recalled the hotel’s historic hammam, one of the precious vestiges remaining from the original 19th Century Palace.
These classic design elements elevated by a modern flair transport guests to different eras, immortalizing the momentous past within the hotel’s walls where heads of state, artists, and other notables have made their homes in Istanbul. Perhaps no accommodations have achieved this more so than the (literally) palatial Sultan Suite, which, at 458 m², is one of the largest accommodations in Europe and among the most expensive, offering an unprecedented level of luxury and seclusion. Comprised of two bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, dining room for twelve, hot tub, fireplace, and art collection, guests in this regal abode have the privilege of chauffeur-driven luxury transfer service in the hotel’s classic 1974 Silver Shadow while in residence.
Dining In
Istanbul is a city that truly loves its food and there is a diversity of gastronomy here that calls back to the merging of East and West and the myriad cultures and regions influencing the flavors. The Palace’s refreshed food & beverage options did not disappoint, all achieved in timely grace as the MICHELIN Guide made its debut in Türkiye for 2023. Breakfasts can be enjoyed either indoors or outdoors, the latter being the preferred option, as it enables an in-depth immersion into the vibrant life of the Bosphorus Strait as the day begins. Guests enjoy a choice of ordering à la carte, featuring delightful traditional dishes, or opting for the fantastically vast buffet occupying successive rooms and niches with abundant hot and cold offerings for the most important meal of the day. Akdeniz also serves a substantial international-style breakfast buffet for guests, before diverging to healthy Mediterranean-style Turkish dishes for lunch and dinner. There’s a terrace space here that overlooks the Bosphorus, making breakfast both peaceful and sublime.
Bellini, featuring Italian cuisine, serves food as beautiful as its name. Renowned for its pasta dishes, it offers a primarily à la carte menu from Sicilian chef Giovanni Vaccaro, divided between a variety of pastas with different sauces and focaccia pizza to share, or not. These casual offerings contrast with more elaborate dishes for an enhanced dining experience. Depending on time available, as well as appetite, it is ideal to consider the variety of courses. Octopus Salad, as well as the Tuna Carpaccio paired with shrimp tempura and grilled vegetables, were both sublime. For primi piatti, the savory “Plin” (pinch) of lamb and eggplant with Gorgonzola sauce and a smooth Risotto al Barolo were substantial, especially when paired with a complex Casalforte Pino Nero from the Veneto. For the main course, Grilled Wild Seabass with fried gnocchi and grilled vegetables in a saffron sauce, and the Grilled Mixed Seafood with vegetables and crusted rice also highlighted with savory saffron, were both outstanding. The innovative and epic menu blended perfectly with traditional favorites like Sabayon and Panna Cotta for dessert. The dining at Bellini is only further elevated by its atmospheric balcony overlooking the Bosphorus Strait. With just four tables, reservations for dining here are absolutely essential.
The hotel’s signature restaurant, Tuğra, also boasts Bosphorus-side outdoor seating. There is perhaps no more atmospheric or romantic setting for a memorable meal than here, amid the palatial marble columns. Ottoman cuisine is the specialty here with Executive chef Emre İnanır researching and expanding a meticulously curated menu to include dishes found in historic Turkish archives. With a c.v. that includes representing Türkiye at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or competition as well as serving as head chef at the Turkish Embassy in South Africa, İnanır is creating a legacy of recipes for the future, drawing inspiration from the country’s rich past. It’s no wonder Tuğra enjoys a MICHELIN recommendation and multiple awards. Although cold weather prevented enjoyment of the romantic balcony settings to which we had grown accustomed, the large windows featured stunning views of the Strait. The tasting menu is ideal to fully explore the chef’s expertise, which is exceptional. The vast array of plates on the menu, many of which incorporated traditional baklava-and börek-style pastry enhancements, harmonized perfectly with the Turkish wines, especially the Consensus Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot from Izmir whose richness graced the Oxtail with quince and pomegranate main course. As well, the Consensus Chardonnay featured a brightness that mellowed the bluefish entrée slow-cooked in fennel on a puree of cherries and hummus. At the end of this memorable meal, we were delighted by a thoughtful bottle of the chef’s own blend of Novavira’s Early Harvest Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
Photos: Kempinski Media | Words: Janine Devine
