It wouldn’t be too hard to guess that we are huge fans of the diverse appeal of the Turquoise Coast of Türkiye. The breathtaking nature, longer yachting season, hidden islets and coves, captivating ruins, and so much more remain tempting daydreams when not at sea.
But the heartland of Türkiye holds an allure that is equally mesmerizing and guaranteed to captivate visitors at first sight. The region of Cappadocia, with its surreal landscapes and ancient history, offers an adventure that transcends the inherent limits of sailing the seas. Whether one explores ancient underground communities, or hikes through mystical valleys, or floats above the near-alien landscape in a hot-air balloon, Cappadocia promises, and easily delivers, an unforgettable journey.
Albeit brief, the two-days we spent were quite magical, thanks to the guidance and lead of Çigdem Sak from Argeus Travel who curated our journey, perfectly capturing the essence of this mesmerizing region she calls home. This itinerary is easy to extend several more days and, like all magnificent journeys, leave both a lasting impression and a desire to discover more. The landscape here is uneven and sometimes rugged. For those looking for explorer-worthy journeys undeterred from long lines and tour buses, especially during high season, it’s paramount to engage the services of a driver and guide, so that visit times are optimized, eliminating waiting in line and bypassing any disruptions.
Day 1: Timeless Wonders and Cultural Feasts
The adventure begins the moment one lands at Kapadokya Havalimani airport. With the expertise of Çigdem guiding our steps, we immediately immerse ourselves in the region’s amazing history.
Our first stop, the church of St. John the Baptist, is the region’s oldest and largest cave church. Set above the ancient, abandoned cliff-side village of Çavuşin, this is a hidden gem from the year 200 AD whittled from the soft rock. Its crumbling walls still show traces of extensive iconography painted centuries after the church opened, mostly in the front section of the church. A few images left of the door along the back wall also remain, although exposure to the elements for over a millennium has left the richly colored frescoes now barely visible. The cool air and ancient walls easily transport visitors back in time, setting the tone for the journey ahead.
We made a brief photography stop at the remaining village of Çavuşin, which the government had moved in the 1960s because of the instability of the cliff walls. It afforded a picturesque glimpse of traditional Turkish life against a backdrop of the region’s typical “fairy chimneys.” Lunchtime brought us to Bala Per Restaurant, with a layout featuring the majestic views of which we never seemed to tire. Here we sampled an array of local flavors, including beef cooked in a terrine. The menu also featured vegan options and the staff’s Turkish hospitality was well-honed.
With our guide, the afternoon focused on the must-see Goreme Open Air Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site, replete with an incredible collection of rock-cut ancient churches and monastic complexes that once were the site of pilgrimages. Many were adorned with exquisite biblical frescoes that somehow have stood the test of time. The contrast between these images and the typical iconography of the much later Christian era in Rome is quite striking and offers a glimpse into the rich history of Cappadocia and early Christian life. Against the backdrop of the other-worldly landscape, the preserved artwork and architecture ensures an unforgettable experience. We followed this with a hike through parts of the Red and Rose Valleys. The striking hues of the rock formations and the presence of local artisans selling handmade ceramics, silk products, and carpets added a lively touch to the serene environment.
Later that evening, dinner at Ziggy Restaurant was a delight. Its intimate space was spread over several levels, so that it never seemed confining. The lamb and traditional Turkish dishes we savored were delicious and, enhanced by the picturesque location, provided a perfect cap to Day 1.
There are many cave hotels throughout this region, but at Yunak Evleri we truly overnighted in history. The hotel is comprised of a 19th-century Greek mansion as a backdrop, with authentically furnished rooms dating back to the 5th century carved into the mountain. Merely strolling from our accommodations to the restaurant was like walking through the ages.
Day 2: Underground Mysteries and Sunset Splendors
We awoke to the present day: dawn hadn’t yet broken, but it was raining. Dependent on the weather to experience those famed hot-air balloon-rides at daybreak, we were grateful that Argeus Travel had our back, ensuring the day still held many wonders. In Avanos, which has been producing ceramics since the time of the Hittites, the Guray Ceramic Museum awaited. The world’s first and only ceramics museum housed in an underground cavern, showcased an astonishing 5,000 years of ceramic art in its Antiquities section, revealing deep insight into the region’s immense artistic heritage. There are also a Modern Ceramics section and one featuring local Contemporary Art.
Venturing further south, we descended deeper into the Kaymakli Underground City, an awe-inspiring labyrinth six levels below the surface. Used as a refuge from invaders, ancient Kaymakli is a testament to human ingenuity and resilience. Walking through its tunnels, storerooms, and living quarters, one can almost hear the whispers of its inhabitants over the centuries echoing through its stone passages. The afternoon led us to the Three Beauties Valley, an ideal spot for both hiking and photography. The setting sun magnified the valley’s ethereal beauty, creating perfect conditions for capturing lasting memories.
As the day drew to a close, we witnessed the mesmerizing Whirling Dervishes ceremony at Saruhan Caravanserai, built in 1249. This historic Silk Road stop was the perfect setting for experiencing a profoundly spiritual expression of Sufi heritage and the quest for enlightenment.
The dinner following at Apetito Restaurant was a culinary farewell to this mesmerizing land and featured expertly prepared dishes amid a warm, welcoming atmosphere and, afterward, a stop at a local spice shop, accompanied by good-natured bargaining, provided the perfect keepsakes to remember this extraordinary journey.
A region that has hosted many civilizations for millennia, Cappadocia promises an array of experiences to capture mind, body, and spirit. From hiking stunning landscapes, to exploring ancient ruins, or indulging in traditional foods with locals, these mesmerizing lands promise a richly rewarding journey.
Photos: Pablo Ferrero | Words: Janine Devine
