Royal Retreat: The Kempinski Palace Engelberg

Engelberg, Switzerland is quite the charming destination. Located in magical setting, surrounded by the most epic mountains and winding roads through quintessential Swiss villages where the usual noises and stressors of life are replaced by the clinking of cowbells dangling from the necks of wide-eyed, placid beasts. It is perhaps rightly best known for its appeal to skiers, due to its premiere location at the base of Mount Titlis. But there is so much more to recommend Engelberg in all seasons of the year, not the least of which are endless trekking routes and, at the town’s center, the 12th Century Kloster Engelberg, a monastery which still houses friars, and is open to the public to tour, dine, or watch the Engelberger Klosterkircher cheese being produced.

Also centered in the middle of Engelberg was our ultimate destination of this road trip: the recently re-imagined Kempinski Palace Engelberg which opened in June, 2021 after five years of renovations. The resort is a cohesive resurrection and re-awakening of a classic, majestic 1905 Belle Époque retreat, once known as the Hotel Europäischer Hof. Since 2016, the charm and unique history of the building has been sensitively preserved, restored, and extended with a new building using modern construction methods.

Because the destination is best known for its mountains, these renovations take every advantage of the spectacular natural views. A multitude of panoramic windows strategically focus on the picturesque setting, bringing in either streaming sunbeams, dancing snowflakes, misty mountains, or star-filled skies.

The end result is a luxurious, elegant haven, with a classic outer shell that segues slowly into an enhanced lobby still retaining those classic Belle Époque trimmings like marble columns and coffered ceilings, but with more stylized lighting. Guests retreat to sleekly contemporary accommodations with the transition from classic to modern never skipping a beat. Each of the 129 rooms and suites boasts windows and large balconies taking full advantage of the breathtaking views. The spacious rooms are equally airy and appealing, with lovely parquet floors and a blonde wood paneling. Textiles are in warm whites and tans, contrasted by chocolates and greys, all serving to create a relaxing space that makes one want to stay put. With everything from mood lighting systems to pre-arrival questionnaires of preferences the Palace uses to personalize a guest’s stay, staying inside is quite easy to do.

But Engelberg’s abundant charms called to us, so we left to explore the immediate surroundings. Just two or three blocks away is the Mount Titlis lift system for the ski facilities as well as other activities in summer. At 3,200 m, Titlis is the Uri range’s tallest mountain. To access its peak and reach the five-story building at the summit -- and numerous shops, panoramic restaurants, and services to please guests -- there are two stages of gondolas to take, offering stellar views. The new Titlis Rotair gondola, which is the first fully rotating gondola in the world, shows off the Uri Alps in all their glory. From here, adrenaline junkies can also test their nerves by traversing the Cliff Walk, Europe’s highest suspension bridge swaying ominously in the breeze over a 500 m drop. For the more restrained, there is also the entrance to trails leading some 20 m into the core of a glacier. The interior glows with an aura of the deepest blue caused by refracted sunlight. When we explored at the end of summer, the ambient temperature was -2°C, and it was already snowing.

We took the first gondola back down to be stationed beneath the clouds, where we found pristine Lake Trübsee, whose clear glacial waters shine the deepest green, reflecting back the majestic surrounding mountains. Magical as it was, there is nothing better after a day in the mountains than enjoying the comforts of an exquisite spa, so we returned to the hotel to enjoy, before getting ready for dinner.

The SPA and Wellness Center is another of the Palace’s treasures. It occupies the entire top floor with an indoor infinity pool, a cozy salt-crystal fireplace, a bio sauna, and a Finnish sauna, along with soothing steam bath, and the requisite fitness room with state-of-the-art equipment. Throughout the entire fifth-floor complex, the strategic placement of glass highlights the exceptional views. The design team deserves special recognition here, as they have created a venue that is both dreamily relaxing and inspirationally energizing at once. One can even detoxify in the sauna while soaking in the views.