The rolling emerald hills of Ireland are home to many so-called castle hotels. Ashford Castle Hotel and Country Estate are the best-known and, undoubtedly, the finest of these. A true castle, Ashford incorporates sections that date from the 13th century. Most of the building is a Victorian fantasy version from the time the First Baron Ardilaun, Arthur Guinness -- grandson of the famed brewery founder -- inherited the lands and added on to the existing structures as a summer estate to escape the heat of Dublin.
Standing guard on the banks of Lough Corrib, Ashford’s imposing gray crenellated turrets command your gaze on the castle’s 350-acre expanse of exquisitely manicured lawns and gardens and lush, forested walks. It is easy enough to conjure your nobility the minute you set upon the long, sinuous road past the gatehouse leading to the hotel. It is serenely picturesque and beckons most alluringly to golfers as they drive towards the entrance. This is Ashford’s own, a 2,996 yards, 9-hole par-35 parkland course, designed by Eddie Hackett in the early 1970’s, was the estate’s original deer park.
Once you cross the hotel’s threshold, you are warmly welcomed as if you’ve only just returned home after a long journey. The team of expert staff ranges in ages and backgrounds, although quite a few have 20 years or more in service at Ashford. This, in addition to Ashford’s abundant charms, is part of the reason for its very high repeat guest rate, especially during the holidays.
The requisite rich, dark and polished woods, coffered ceilings, vibrant tapestries, an abundance of chandeliers (both Waterford crystal and Murano glass), along with sword-wielding suits of armor, are here as well. You have arrived, and indeed all this splendor is for you, carefully curated by the team under General Manager Niall Rochford, which includes a pair of very vibrant Irish Wolfhounds to match the stone ones standing guard at the threshold. All 83 individually decorated accommodations feature king beds, many four-postered. The Staterooms located in the oldest part of the castle come with impossibly high ceilings and working fireplaces. Those fancying clean lines and modern furniture will still be impressed by the sumptuous fabrics covering beds, windows, and seating. As much as this opulence might take you back a century, not to worry, you are not subject to Ireland’s famous mercurial weather here. After a 2-year closure and multi-millions of dollars of renovations invested by the South African Tollman family who purchased the hotel for its prestigious Red Carnation Hotels brand in 2013, all that historically lavish furniture and décor is enhanced by touch screen controls of lighting, climate, media, and more, the much-appreciated underfloor heating and towel bars in the large Connemara marble-trimmed baths.
The Hideaway Cottage is a perfect option for reigning one’s own kingdom. Lovingly restored from the estate’s former boathouse, it’s ideal for social distancing while providing just the right amount of romance. Access here is through locked gates, which makes it a perfect retreat, with private lakeside dining for days whenever weather permits. Parquet floors, original artworks, and antique furniture ensure that, although private, you are still assured your stay will be suitable for the manor born.
