Seasons At The Lobby Bar, Hotel Métropole Monte-Carlo

Seasons change, the days now grow shorter. The early evenings might mean less daytime, but we’d like to think it means more nightlife and time for enjoyment or relaxation. Even the action in and around the Casino and along the Carré d’Or is a bit subdued. And while it is a bit chillier, as long as the mistral is not threatening from the north, evening walks are pleasant under streets festooned with the glittering lights and brilliant window displays this time of year brings. It makes us want to stop rushing around to get things done and linger to soak in the festive glow. But we digress.

It is in this most wonderful time of the year that catching up with friends old and new and there, at the end of what seems the longest, most glittering driveway is the ideal destination for this: the Métropole Monte-Carlo. Beyond its main entry’s array of terraces and colonnades, and into the grand lobby, visitors and guests are treated to impressive art installations and glorious floral presentations. These are displays that transform them into virtual Alices, and send them straight into a wonderland….of hospitality and of tastes. Here beneath a glass roof, there is a series of inviting, low-slung chairs and tables where it’s possible to partake in some imaginative libations and delicious plates, or merely just a coffee or tea in the morning. Although the hotel’s Yoshi ranks as the Cote d’Azur’s only Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant, and the pool-side Karl Lagerfeld-designed Odyssey beckons, we head straight for the less obvious, but equally auspicious, Lobby Bar.

The Atmosphere

The setting itself is always lovely in whatever season one venture upon it, with its natural color palette and lighting infusing a cozy and very welcoming ambience. Perhaps because of its location that is discreet, yet openly inviting, the Lobby Bar has morphed into a top gastronomic destination in the principality. Don’t let its succinct and simplistic name mislead. This was a domain of the much-lauded culinary master, Joël Robuchon. After his passing, it rests in excellent hands, growing from strength to strength. Executive Chef Christophe Cussac carries on the culinary brilliance of his predecessor and creatively innovates Mediterranean dishes while still keeping them refined, new classics for a new age.

Since, technically, the venue is open to all, it still does make advance reservations a must, particularly in the high season. The staff here are as professional as one would expect in a venue catering to the Métropole’s type of clientele, and despite what could be a very serious and imposing décor of book-filled walls, it bears an understated and comforting ambience of elegance and warmth, with just a hint of glamour. The lighting is subdued, casting a glow upon deep, rich woodwork in the inner room, which is filled with antiques and collectibles, and shelves upon shelves of books, like one’s much-beloved grandmother’s villa in the hills just outside Firenze. Library or not, it is a shelter tucked just behind what is often a busy venue. Still, if you know, you know; and even the WCs are tucked behind a hidden door here, which first-time visitors will need the assistance of a waiter to find.  

The Tastes

Teas, coffees, and sweets are not the only items on the menu, and a mid-morning stop here is ultimately very satisfying. Service is ongoing throughout the day and part of the night, from 8 AM to 1 AM, so lunches and dinners or afternoon teas are all handled with equal charmingly efficient aplomb. Indeed, grandmama would be impressed. The diverse menu reflects the extended range of service hours, offering everything from starters such as Gazpacho with Toasted Croutons to the more refined Thinly-sliced Artichokes with Parmesan to a Seasonal Lobster, Grapefruit, and Tomato salad. Both the Sandwich and Pasta & Pizza menus are just as tantalizing, although if carbohydrate counters will likely want to opt for something off the Dessert menu, like a glorious Lemon Tart at meal’s end. Main Dishes include comforting entrées such as Lamb Chops with Garden-fresh Thyme, customize-able plain Omelettes, or the renowned Lobster Frites that come with a delectable Spicey Sauce. This menu holds a wide variety of dishes that spell comfort and ease, all styled with a culinary mastery to elevate them from basic.