In Monaco, a destination known for its exceptional dining experiences, the 2022 addition to the dining scene has secured another celebrated status for the already legendary multi Michelin-starred chef, Yannick Alléno. Known for his meticulous yet innovative approach to French gastronomy, Alléno’s Pavyllon Monte-Carlo is a venue that ticks all the boxes for both visitors and residents of the Principality, namely a welcoming, elegant yet informal space, set within the hallowed halls of Monaco’s legendary Hôtel Hermitage, which already hosts an incredible array of gastronomic venues.
As we have often done in the past, we returned to the Hôtel Hermitage for our annual Monaco Yacht Show dinner to host both yacht owners and industry leaders and discuss pressing issues and challenges for luxury yachting. Each year, we aim to change things up a bit and this year the Michelin-starred Pavyllon Monte-Carlo not only delighted our palates but provided a dynamic and inspiring venue to discuss the thoughtfully selected topic to generate positive action in the future for the industry.
Following the rule-breaking counter-style setting of her three Michelin-starred sister, Paris’ Pavyllon Ledoyen, famed for fine dining brought to the Bar, both share meticulously curated menus showcasing seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, carefully orchestrated with inventive techniques, balancing flavors and textures in ways both traditional and innovative to delight the palate. Pavyllon Monte-Carlo, however, is decidedly Monegasque: sophisticated, without taking herself too seriously. Her expansive terrace overlooking Port Hercule, the famous Rock, and the sparkling Mediterranean waters beyond, providing a serenely comfortable dining environment where the elements of nature become an intrinsic part of the both the design and the experience.
As for the Paris venue, Parisian designer Chahan Minassian, generally known for residences, took on these interiors to create a relaxing yet sophisticated setting with muted greys and greens commingling with richly grained oak panels and velvet accents. The design evokes an atmosphere of home that is both sophisticated and relaxed, recalls the exquisite natural beauty of the Cote d’Azur just outside. The gastronomic bar, a striking metallic wood structure, offers diners a front-row seat to the meticulous gastronomic orchestrations performed daily in the open kitchen. Beyond, intimate round tables, soft lighting, stylish furnishings, and attentive service complete a setting conducive to relaxation, culinary appreciation, and inspired conversation. The interplay of modern aesthetics with classic touches creates a welcoming yet refined environment.
Dinner Overtures and Preludes
The evening’s culinary journey began with two exquisite canapés. The pizza bread, warm and soft, melded the sweetness of caramelized onions with a delicate crust, while the tender fish ball offered a fresh, briny taste that evoked the Mediterranean. These initial bites set the tone for the meal, elevating simple ingredients into memorable mouthfuls of playful yet sophisticated canapés, adhering to Alléno’s expertise in wedding simplicity with finesse.
The Insane Salad presented a vibrant medley of fresh vegetables and ripe cherry tomatoes paired with the nutty and piquant Parmesan; both a pleasure to view as it was to taste. The greens and herbs could not have been more locally sourced (direct from the Hermitage’s own garden), while the tomato pigment in lemon olive oil added brightness, balancing acidity with its rich Mediterranean flavor. Each taste rewarded with complexity and freshness, epitomizing the philosophy of free-spirited Côte d’Azur cuisine.
Crescendo: Cheese Soufflé with Chanterelles, followed by Guinea Fowl
The cheese soufflé, served alongside earthy chanterelle mushrooms and an Arbois vin jaune sauce created a harmony of texture and flavor. Light as air, the richness and complexity of the cheese remained delicate. The chanterelles contributed umami-like richness complemented by the nuanced acidity of the wine sauce. This was an exceptional showcase of the chef’s prowess curating dishes that were at once complex yet comforting. The sommelier expertly paired this course with a 2018 Domaine Guillemot-Michel Viré-Clessé “Quintaine” whose bright apple and variety of citrus notes elevated the complexity of this dish.
The Arnaud Tauzin guinea fowl breasts and legs, accompanied by wilted baby spinach and a velvety sauce, exemplifying mastery over robust and savory profiles. The tender, flavorful meat accentuated by the rich reduction was balanced by the fresh, earthy spinach. Paired with a 2017 Domaine Vacheron Belle Dame Sancerre, its fruity notes and smooth tannins perfectly complemented the dish’s depth.
Second Movement: Traditional Trouchia
The second course that followed, a traditional chard tart, was a multi-sensory delight. Crowned by a generous layer of melted Parmesan and artfully garnished with edible flowers, the creamy richness of the cheese harmonized with the earthy and crisp tang of the chard while the fresh herbs added further layers of complexity. The tart was aired with an intense white wine, likely chosen for its robust body to complement the richness of the cheese and the earthy notes of the chard. The wine’s slight acidity cut through the creaminess, enhancing - but not overpowering - the bold flavors.
Finale: Lebanese-inspired Ice Cream
The meal concludes with a Lebanese-inspired ice cream infused with pistachio and hazelnut, offering a sweet, nutty depth, continuing the Alléno talent for ingenuity. Hints of citrus and candied orange added brightness to the creamy creation, providing a refreshing and exotic finale to the meal, incorporating the global influences on his work while staying true to his innovative roots. Using birch sap as a natural sweetener, creations like this remain light and innovative, ending a repast with energy and excitement, unlike lesser, heavier meals. These desserts bring the meal to a close on a high note, embodying the spirit of modern gastronomy that Alléno spearheads.
Reviews Pour In
Pavyllon Monte-Carlo, a Restaurant by Yannick Alléno is an orchestration of brilliant, often contrasting flavors, textures, and experiences venturing far beyond mere dining. The attention to detail -- from the bespoke tableware to the interplay of decor and cuisine -- creates an environment that is as much about ambiance and the destination as it is about the food itself which is a unique blend of tradition and innovation on every plate. From the interior design to innovative dishes, every element is intentionally crafted to provide guests with a memorable culinary adventure that is as cosmopolitan as Monaco itself. With no fewer than 15 Michelin stars to his name, visionary Yannick Alléno single-handedly redefines fine-dining in Monte-Carlo.
Photos: Guillaume Cottancin | Words: Janine Devine
