Il Ristorante Niko Romito

A Journey Across Italy in the Heart of Tokyo

Metropolitan Tokyo is, of course, gastronomic heaven, home to more MICHELIN-starred restaurants than anywhere else on the planet. On our recent return, we had the pleasure of experiencing just one of these, a piccola enclave of Italian design and gastronomy in the heart of Japan’s capital on the forty-second floor of the sleek Tokyo Midtown Yaesu tower. At the top of the building’s 45 stories is the Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo and its signature dining outlet, IL RISTORANTE - NIKO ROMITO, which garnered a Michelin star for two consecutive years mere months after its 2023 opening. Il Ristorante follows its sister establishments in destinations as diverse as Dubai, Beijing, Shanghai, Paris, Milan, and Rome, serving contemporary interpretations of authentic Italian cuisine. Simple dishes crafted from the freshest ingredients, flavorful reminders of why Italian cooking is beloved worldwide.

For Bvlgari aficionados, both the hotel and its restaurant offer an exceptional benvenuti and a delectable sense of coming home no matter where one finds oneself. The celebrated, and entirely self-taught, Niko Romito, himself a recipient of multiple MICHELIN stars for Ristorante Reale in his native Abruzzo, personally trained each of the chefs that helm these restaurants. For Tokyo, this is Mauro Aloisio, a fellow Abruzzese who has worked with Romito in several Bvlgari kitchens as well as at Romito’s own Accademia in Abruzzo.

Exiting the elevator and bypassing hotel reception, it is admittedly challenging to head straight to one’s ultimate dining destination. Guests must pass alluring displays of jewelry and accessories beckoning from glass niches, the sleek yet serene Lounge, and the tempting Dolce shop. Yet, IL RISTORANTE - NIKO ROMITO is unmistakable, its striking marmalade-colored wall evoking a Roman sunset opposite another wall of floor-to-ceiling windows framing Tokyo’s sparkling cityscape. Upon arrival, guests are welcomed by impeccably trained staff whose attention to detail sets the tone for the evening ahead. The ambiance strikes a perfect balance: thoughtful interplay of colors and lighting creates an atmosphere that feels luxurious, dynamic, and comfortable. Beneath the curved ceiling subtly hinting at the Asian location, tables are generously spaced to ensure conversations and dining experiences remain intimate.

We opted for the Menu Degustazione all’ Italiana, ideal for a shared tasting experience. The comprehensive menu clearly accommodated dietary restrictions and specific dining preferences.

Fresh Starts

A selection of reinterpreted classics provided a delightful overture. Bruschetta with baked tomato elevated simplicity to art, offering concentrated tomato flavors atop perfectly toasted bread, reflecting the kitchen’s unwavering respect for quality ingredients. Amberjack with garlic, chili, and extra virgin olive oil balanced delicate heat with oceanic freshness, while milk-fed veal paired with a classic vitello tonnato sauce elegantly reimagined traditional family favorites. Coastal influences continued with tuna accompanied by onions and balsamic vinegar, capturing a harmonious blend of sharpness and sweetness. The sommelier expertly paired these dishes with a fresh and vibrant 2022 Antinori Castello della Sala Cervaro, a structured Chardonnay softened by Grechetto, offering mineral complexity and subtle fruit and oak notes that complemented the antipasti beautifully.

Savory Second Course

Chef Aloisio guided us into heartier territory with a series of comforting yet refined plates. The inventive deep-fried frittatina di pasta provided a textural contrast, its crisp exterior yielding to a tender center. Octopus reached perfection in the classic Neapolitan Luciana style, showcasing seafood mastery. We continued north on this Italian escapade with crispy polenta morsels topped with mushroom and leek ragù grounded the palate with earthy richness, while a veal and Savoy cabbage meatball offered homestyle comfort elevated by culinary precision.

Well-deserved popularity, we recommend booking well in advance to secure a visit to this serene sanctuary.

Main Course Maneuvers

Two showstoppers dominated the main course. A vegetarian splendor, lasagna with mushrooms and black truffle, transformed a classic into an opulent indulgence. Roasted lamb saddle accompanied by black cabbage, anise, and pepper provided a harmonious interplay between tender meat and assertive seasoning. The sommelier’s inspired choice of a 2008 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera, traditionally considered suited for dessert due to its concentration and complexity, proved equally adept alongside the robust flavors, its aged, velvety character perfectly enhancing the lamb.

A Chocolate-filled Finale

Dessert arrived triumphantly: a chocolate and almond cake paired with cocoa sorbet and chocolate sauce expressed chocolate’s many forms, from bitter to sweet, creamy to crystalline. Following this, a Japanese tea service spoiled us further with additional sweets, thoughtfully bridging the Italian culinary journey with the restaurant’s Tokyo setting.
Dining at IL RISTORANTE - NIKO ROMITO isn’t merely enjoying a meal; it offers a comprehensive dining experience merging meticulous Japanese service standards with Italy’s diverse regional culinary traditions, reinterpreted through Niko Romito’s philosophy of simplicity and purity. The ambiance, exceptional service, and meticulously curated and executed menu reflect the restaurant’s unwavering commitment to culinary excellence. Discreet tableside visits from the energetic sous chef eased any potential language barriers, underscoring the restaurant’s dedication to providing both outstanding service and remarkable culinary experiences. For those seeking an elevated understanding of Italian cuisine, this restaurant delivers both education and pure pleasure.

Craving more exceptional dining experiences? Discover our review of Le Louis XV by Alain Ducasse in Monte Carlo—another unforgettable culinary journey. Read it here »